It is hard to imagine a food more devotion-worthy than pizza. After all, even bad pizza is good pizza. And at its best—an intoxicating jumble of crust, sauce, and cheese—it’s nothing short of sublime. But with any devotion comes strong opinions, and taste is nothing if not subjective.
Yet, in a country that is home to an ever-growing class of truly excellent pizza makers, the very best still find a way to rise to the top.
