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In fine dining, a Michelin star is commonly seen as the ultimate certification that a restaurant meets a particular standard of excellence. As a result, Michelin stars attract diners willing to pay hundreds of dollars per person. What most industry outsiders don’t appreciate, though, is just how much is involved in achieving and maintaining a star rating.

For instance, chefs complain that Michelin prioritizes “consistency,” which means that Michelin-starred chefs must forgo the opportunity to experiment. In addition, Michelin expects restaurants to maintain certain standards of decor, a long menu, a well-stocked wine cellar, and a large staff, all of which can be ruinously expensive. As a result, restaurants can feel that the increased demand attracted by Michelin stars is not worth the additional expenses and constraints, and some have even gone as far as returning their stars.